WEKYN, Parte Due (Where Everyone Knows Your Name, Part 2)

Italy
One of my facebook friends is Stè Bassan.  He has a tavern in a small suburb of Padova called Albignasego (I can spell it, but have a really hard time saying it, especially to cab drivers.  Fortunately, they seem to be able to figure it out, and gently correct me.  Still can't say it very well). 

He has had the tavern for about a year, and it is also the Triveneto headquarters for the Danilo Sacco fan club.  For those who I maybe haven't talked to in a couple of years, he is the lead singer of an Italian group I like.  That is how I became acquainted with Stè. 

Luke's Beer

When I told him we were planning a trip to Italy, he said to come by the tavern, and we could try some beers.   There were several reasons why I picked Padova, including the nearness to Venice, the lower cost for rooms, and because it is near the tavern.  It was going to be fun to meet someone I felt I knew a little, and it would be the first contact with someone in Italy that also sort of knew me. I was very nervous about speaking Italian to Italians, and I was hoping that I would be able to have some kind of conversation with him.

We arrived in Venice early in the morning at the Santa Lucia station, checked our packs, and took off walking through the alleys of the city, over the canals, around corners, always following the signs to Piazza San Marco.  Venice is a great place.     It was Sunday, but it wasn't yet busy.  Many of the street venders were just setting up, and a lot of the shops weren't open.  We eventually found our way to San Marco (NOW it was crazy busy!),

It was WAY busier than it looks

and then caught a vaporetto (a canal bus) back to the train station.  (Hopefully, there will be a Venice blog, although it will be rather late.)

There we purchased tickets to Padova on the slow train, and arrived about 1/2 hour later.  Because I didn't do a very good job giving Becky the hotel information, we sat around outside for about 1/2 hour until I could figure out which way we were to go to the hotel.  It was only about a 15 minute walk, but by that time, we were getting a little tired.  We finally got there, checked in, and I really can't remember what we did after that until about evening.

We called a cab, and took off for a town I really couldn't quite pronounce, and hoped they were open (yeah, I know).  We arrived about €22 later, and went in. 

Stè wasn't immediately seen, but I asked the bartender if he was there, and as I did, Stè came around the corner.  Such a nice man.  And the tavern is wonderful.  We immediately felt welcome, and started by having a small meal, even though I think we were a little early for them.  We have found out that most "evening" in Italy don't even begin to start until about 9 pm, and we were there about 7, I think. 

Looks like "just" spaghetti with sauce, but boy,
would you be wrong

We shared a wonderful tender bruschetta, Becky had a pasta with mushrooms, and I had what was like an Italian quesadilla, but with a definite Italian touch. 

Becky had planned to purchase some Italian wine while we are in Italy for Steve and Diane, and we also wanted to get some for Eric and Lin, so we asked Stè for his recommendation, and he asked how much we wanted to spend.  Since the cost of shipping was going to be rather high, we figured we would get something around €20-22.  He said he had some wine that he and his dad made, and that we could have some of that for €3 each.  We thought that would be great.  As it was, we would have no idea how any wine we bought would taste, and at the very least, this wine had a great story.  He said there would be karaoke the next night, and we said we would like to come.  He then said he would bring the wine then, however then he said he was going to go get his fiancé and would be back in 15-20 minutes.  We had a nice time watching people, chatting a little with the bartender who spoke a little English, and enjoying our wine and food. 

About 20 minutes later, Stè returned.... with six bottles of wine:  Three white, and three red. 

Mystery wine at bottom of picture

He gave them to us. For free.  I think his dad also came in, but he didn't stop by the table.  It was such a kind gesture.  I can't wait to try the wine. (I also mailed myself two bottles.  We used post office wine boxes, but still are not sure how well they will transport.  The bottles have bottle caps on them, not corks.  There also aren't any labels on the bottles.  We only claimed €20 on the customs forms, hoping we won't be levied a high tariff, but won't know until they get there.  We really don't even know if they will allow them into the country. We will see.)

[For the recipients to consider: 

1. Air fare to Italy: $880
2. Cab fare to Osteria: €22 x 3 plus one for €44 (don't ask)
3. Packing boxes, postage: ~ €50 each

Keep in mind this may be the most expensive wine you never get]

So, the next night, we gave the cab company another €22 (yes, it was the same on the way back the night before..... the wine is becoming more expensive).  We had an incredibly fun time. 

The DJ was insane.

Nicola Schiavo, the DJ 

There were a number of people who sang who had beautiful voices.  They played several
songs that were for me (Nomadi...the group I like), and although I didn't go up and sing, Stè did, and he has a really good voice, and everybody sang with every song anyway.  His girlfriend, Monica also sang several songs, and sings well. We felt very welcomed, and even though we didn't speak the language well (or at all), and didn't know a lot of the songs, and couldn't remember anyone's names, nor they ours, it didn't matter.  Sometimes, "everyone knows your name" is just a figure of speech, and it is the thought that counts.

Dee

Where Everybody Knows Your Name

Whether they are called bars, pubs, taverns, or (in Italy), osteria, there is something special about a place that you can go into where the same group of people show up every evening and socialize together.  There is sometimes  good music, sometimes singing, sometimes just catching up on the days events.  The conversation can be about sports, politics, the economy, or the recent layoffs and factory shut downs.  They are places where you can receive emotional support, laughs, tears, or if not solutions to your problems, at least understanding.  

I personally don't have a particular place like this where I am a constant and familiar figure, but it has been fun watching the people in some of these places, and in at least one case, we were so welcomed, it felt like we have been there for years.

Inverness, Scotland

One of the first places we went to in Scotland was not even really open.  It was probably about 4:00 pm, and there were only a couple of people at the bar.  We ordered a drink, and sat for a bit, but it wasn't really time to be there yet, so we left.  I did like the inside, though.  It was the type of place we wanted to find, but not the right time of day.



Later that day, we learned of another pub called Gellions where there was going to be traditional Scottish music that evening.  We went at 8:00 because that is what time we thought the music started, but we were the only ones there.  We did have a good meal, but then went out for a bit (ice cream :) ), and returned back at 9 for the music.   It was wonderful, but since I forgot my camera, there are no pictures.  (I remembered later that I had my cell phone.) We enjoyed a group called Schiehallion lead by Kenneth Jamienson who has a wonderful voice.  Here is a YouTube clip with Kenneth singing.  I think this is a more formal setting (notice the shirts and ties), but the feeling is the same, and it is in Gellion's.




The next night there was another group playing at a pub called Hootananny's.  This is (of course!) a Thai restaurant/pub, and although the group that was playing was ok, it was more Irish-celtic jig music than what we had enjoyed the night before.  It was heavy on fiddle, and not as enjoyable....but the Thai food was excellent.

Hootananny's, Inverness

Next door to our hostel was the Castle Tavern, and actually the first place we went to after we got set up in our room.  We had a nice meal, and a drink.  No inside pictures, but we do have some of the outside.  And you can read more about it here.

The Castle Tavern









Edinburgh

On to Edinburgh.... a real party town.  Going from the very quiet of Bute to the moderately restrained Inverness, and then hitting Edinburgh was like going from Estacada to Salem to Portland.  Ok, maybe a little wilder than Portland. Quite a surprise.  The parties didn't exactly stay in the pubs.  They seemed to continue all night at times, and right under our window in the hostel.  The tall old buildings, cobblestoned streets, and long alleys make for excellent acoustics, and the sound carries quite well... both up, down, and across everything.

I don't remember the name of this one, but we had dinner there.  They had a really good beer tasting sampler. 


We went to several interesting places.  One wasn't even a pub, but a whisky store.  There Brian, the whisky expert, gave me a "wee dram" of an incredible 27 year old scotch whisky that he warned me (rightfully so) would ruin me for any other scotch. 

It didn't burn going down, it lingered on the tongue for at least 1/2 hour, and made every other whisky I tasted in Scotland seem second rate. I did stop by to "thank him", but he was gone for the day. The other fellow who was also there at the time said he would "surely pass along the message".   This is the history of the brand

Dailuaine 27 year old Scotch Whisky

The other place we went that was a pub, although we ate there upstairs in the restaurant, is worth a mention for the ceiling.  Oh, and it was the place I had Haggis.

Ceiling of the Deacon Brodie's Tavern

I think I will continue with Italy in a second part.  It seems the more pictures I ask the program to insert, the longer it takes. 

Dee

Dreams of a 9 Year Old Realized

In about 1959, I saw a movie that impressed me greatly (as a 9-year old).  It was "The Miracle of the White Stallions".  Since that time I have wanted to go to Austria and see the Spanish Riding School.  Today that dream came true.  We arrived in Vienna last night and checked into our hostel.

One of the hallways

Although unassuming from the outside, it is really nice inside.

Front sign

Our room

Outside patio

This morning, we had a reservation at the Spanish Riding School (the Winter School) for a 2 hour training session.  I had decided that I would rather do that than just attend a performance.  In addition, I made reservations for us to join a tour of the school afterward.

Unfortunately, no cameras are allowed for performances or training sessions, however, I was happy to get some other good photos that I can share with you.  The School is located in a very different place than I anticipated.  It is in the middle of a very famous plaza, in the Hofburg Palace. 

Many carriages around the Palace

Hofburg Palace, home of the
Spanish Riding School

On arrival and after finding the school inside the Palace, we were ushered into the hall, or arena where we had come to observe 2 hours of training sessions. 

The riders were dressed in their uniforms which I thought was amazing for a training session. Each trainer starts as an Elevey, around the age of 15, and is entrusted with one horse they are to train up the level of being put into a performance.  This takes 4-6 years.  After that time, they become an assistant rider.  Then as an assistant rider, they are assigned 5 horses and are under the toutelage of a chief rider.  When the trainers are assigned a horse, it is assumed that that trainer will stay with that horse for it's entire performing life - which can be up to around 23 years of age.  The horses are not started until they are 4 as they are allowed to grow up and mature before starting the training. 

I was surprised to see that the horses are often given treats while being trained.  The riders have a special pocket in the back of their jackets in which (I was later told) they keep sugar cubes.  When a horse does a particularly good job, they are given a sugar cube.  Another thing of interest I learned is that they do very little warm-up before either training or performing.  These horses are apparently well built for the work they do, which looks, and is, VERY collected, and they do not require a big warmup.  I noticed the trainer would walk maybe twice around the arena, then trot for a couple minutes and would then begin asking for the exercise, whether it be passage, tempes, side passes, whatever.  And always in collection.  They would however, after a particularly long session of collection, drop them and let them stretch out.  I noticed one horse being worked very hard on the Piaffe (trotting in place).  After the exercise that looked very hard, the horse was allowed to trot out for a few strides - like a release.

During the training session we watched, assistant riders working their charges. (No photos allowed inside at that time). There were four 1/2-hour groups of  5 horses trained.  Only one horse did airs above the ground and it was only 2 times.  He was practiced on the courbette - raising full height on the hind legs and completing a series of jumps forward.  One amazing note was the the rider had no stirrups.  Later I asked and was told that NONE of the airs are ever ridden with stirrups.

After the training session, we had signed up for a tour of the school.  It was wonderful to see the barns which are also in the palace.

There is 3 story courtyard,  built by a early king who wanted his son to live in the quarters in the second story, above the horses.  The son thought it was too small for living and chose a different home (he was obviously crazy).  The whole bottom story is the stalls.  Some of the stalls face out into the courtyard, there are two more rows of stall behind those that are facing out. These stalls house a total of 76 stallions - IN the palace which is in the middle of Vienna - just amazing.

We had noticed one beautiful blood bay horse in the training session.  We were told it is because it is considered good luck for there to be at least 1 horse "of color" in the stables.  They currently have two.

We visited the tack room which was stacked ceiling high with all of the saddles and bridles.

Each has a name plate as every saddle is made custom for each horse and because they are fit for the horse, they require no padding.
There are 1/2 pads that go behind the saddle (seen on the far wall in the frame).  The green ones are for those horses that still do only flat work.  The red pads are for those horses that can do Airs Above the Ground.  Stripes on the pad signify the rank of the trainer, whether assistant or chief. 

Two bridles were red and those signified those horses as worked from the ground (long reins).




Finally we went outside and saw the outside training ring, although it was located inside the hot walker.  The hot walker was actually a oval shaped building which they put the horses into, seperated by large hanging rubber dividers. The horses are put into the walker loose and between two of these dividers.  When the hot walker begins to move, the horse is gently prodded along by the divider.  The section they are in is quite a bit longer than they are.  When the walker changes direction, the guide said the horses know and will automatically turn around inside their section.  You can almost see the arena behind the hotwalker, which goes around the entire perimeter of the arena.

I have much more information and many more photos, but that is all I could fit in here.  I have to say it was one of my best days - EVER.  I hope to share more with my horse-friends who may be interested.

Becky

On The Road To Nowhere..... and Very Slowly.

1st Class lounge, Amsterdam Centraal
Train Station

(Written on October 13... but posted October 14)

We started out last night well.  We stayed in the 1st Class lounge at Amsterdam train station (lovely),  and we caught our City Nights sleeper train which was on time.  The porter, who seems very distracted, and speaks perhaps less English than I thought he did, was not very helpful in showing us how to use the things in our room.  He did show us the reading light (about a 15 watt bulb), and how to work the air conditioning.   He didn’t bother to tell us how to turn the water on in the sink, and it wasn’t until the next morning that Becky figured it out. 

Train sleeper with seats up,
Amsterdam to Munich

The beds are quite firm, and the train is extremely rough.  I am rather amazed because I have slept on trains in the past, and they sort of relax you and lull you to sleep.  This shook you awake, and there was really no lulling.  We each fell asleep easily enough, but the trick this time was staying asleep.  There were several times during the night that I thought we were actually making a 90 degree turn (which I know is not possible), and wasn’t sure we weren’t going in a big circle.  The train would speed up rapidly, and then come to a very quick stop. 

(Whoo-hoo….. train moving….more about that in the next paragraph)

The porter told us that a buzzer would go on an hour before we reached Munich, and that they would then bring around breakfast and coffee. We have been concerned because we have less than 10 minutes to transfer trains there.  He said it wasn’t a problem, that there were trains every 30 minutes from Munich to Vienna, but he didn’t know if we had to get another ticket, or if we could use the one we had. 

 I had set the alarm on my phone for 0630 to be sure we got up, but by the time the alarm rang, I realized we had been sitting still for a long time.  This had happened several times during the night, so I thought it was just another stop, and they were waiting for something.  Well, they were. 

I stepped outside the train (in the dark) to talk to two other train employees, since I couldn’t find our porter, but neither of them spoke any English, Spanish, or Italian.  I sort of figured out, though since the train wasn’t moving, it was now 0645, and no one seemed in any hurry to get back on the train, that we were stopped for some other reason other than a regular train stop. 

Finally, I spoke to a woman who was talking to them in German, and in English she told me we were at this time 3 hours late, and would be probably 5 hours late getting into Munich because “a lock was broken”.  Becky and I started to convert our bunks into seating.  We had most of it figured out, and then caught the porter in a moment when he was a little less distracted, and he finished putting the seats up.  

Now back to “Whoo-hoo, we are moving.” It is now 0750 and it looks like we are on our way.  I am still not sure where we are, but at least we are going in the right direction.  I think.   Well, we will get to see a little more of Germany now that it is daytime, and we are sitting up in our little compartment, with 3-5 hours of “free” train time at our disposal.

The other good news is that since we still have the 1500 Munich to Vienna ticket from our earlier purchase, and we were unable to convince Raileurope to take them back, we do have a reservation on  the 1500 train… if we get to Munich by then.   More later…. Oh, and perhaps I need to learn just a little more German than Bitte and Danke.

*************************************************************************************

1318:   We are now sitting in our first class train to Vienna.  We haven’t started moving, yet, but I do believe we are at least on the right train.  Very nice seats, lots of leg room.  We were indeed five hours late getting in, but the transfer of tickets went fairly well.  We now have a four hour ride through Germany and part of Austria to get to Vienna.  We will be getting in about six hours later than we had originally planned, but still earlier than the day tickets we had purchased before (see prior post).  Now if I can get a cup of coffee, all will be pretty right with the world. 

What About the Food?

So, one of the things that defines a culture is it's food.  We have been trying some different things over the past week, and want to share them.  We will start adding either a separate post, or an insert in the regular posts about new things we have learned about food.

1.  A very popular breakfast item we have found (although we have also found it on lunch menus) is a breakfast egg and bacon, or egg and sausage roll.  The first one I tried was at the Brasserie (see jazz pictures in the prior blog).  This was a wonderful restaurant, and the food was very good.  Becky had a BLT, and I had the breakfast roll. 

 The egg was fresh and cooked perfectly, and the bacon was a cross between Canadian bacon, bacon and ham. Salty and the perfect compliment to the egg and the wonderful soft, seedy roll.

2.  When you order coffee, you will be asked "black or white".  White coffee is hot milk and coffee.  Rather like a latte.  The coffee here in the UK has been very good, although very strong.  An Americano, which in the US is just hot water and coffee, is more like a "shot in the dark" would be in the US:  Regular coffee with a shot of espresso.  Quite strong.  I have decided to order a pot of hot water with my americano to extend the coffee, and not overdose on a straight hit of caffeine.  Oh, and you don't get "free refills" here, at least not anywhere that I have been. 

A side note:  It has also been hard to figure out the tipping procedure here. Do you or don't you, and how much? I was just talking with the man who runs the hostel, and he says it is very much up to you.  The tendency is to tip less than in America, he says "usually 12-12 1/2 % is the suggested amount in some restaurants, but there won't be any verbal abuse if you don't."
3.  Spotted Dick:  We were shopping for some bread and cheese in a co-op market in Rothesay, and found a package of "spotted dick" in the mark down bin.  We had just recently seen it on a menu in a nice restaurant we had visited the first night in the town, but didn't quite have the nerve to ask what it was. According to Carol, a woman from Cheshire, England who we met in the hostel, it is a very common dessert on school menues, and is either loved or hated by school children (she hated it) .  It didn't sound particularily appetizing:  Suet sponge with raisins, and a custard sauce.  Well, Becky and I have decided after experimenting with several desserts, that anything with custard sauce is wonderful (see following note), so we decided for 99p that we would take the chance, especially since the package said it was a "co-operative spotted dick".  It was actually pretty good. We also had a good laugh discussing the name, whether the discount would affect the quality of a "spotted dick", what happens to a due-to-expire spotted dick, and would "reducing" the price also reduce the size of the.....  well, you get the idea, and you can take it from there. 

4.  Custard sauce:  I have always said that you could put cream cheese on anything and it would be good.  Likewise, you can put kennel ration on a Ritz cracker, and it would be yummy.  Well, add to these truths one about custard sauce.  It is an amazing creation, and guaranteed to make ANYTHING not only yummy, but incredibly so (see above suet recipe).  It should be packaged and placed on the table along with salt, pepper, and butter so you could put it on whatever you wanted.  Pancakes, check.  Oatmeal, check.  Vegetables, yeh, probably check.  Ice cream, absolutely.  It makes any cake immediately better than on its own.  It is so good, you can eat it with a spoon.  I think it could be produced and sold in cans rather like evaporated or condensed milk.  There could be a real market for it. 

Sticky Toffee Pudding with custard sauce

 This is another wonderful item which on it's own is worth eating.  It is a toffee cake drowning in caramel, and the you have the option (like who wouldn't) of adding the Amazing Custard Sauce (and yes, it should be capitalized).

Becky and I both admitted it was actually better than the cocolate cake below.

Chocolate cake with custard sauce

The chocolate cake was moist and not too sweet, so adding the Amazing Custard Sauce didn't make it sweeter.  That is one of the things about it that makes it Amazing.... it isn't actually overly sweet.  Just rich and creamy.

5.  Last night, we went to a pub to listen to traditional Scottish music (more about that later), and we had dinner there.  For £3.95 I had a toasted cheese sandwich and a wonderful parsnip and honey soup.  It was blended smooth with the consistency of thin applesauce, and had a really wonderful flavor.  Just a hint of sweetness, and a subtle parsnip flavor. It wasn't overly woody tasting, but had the earthiness that parsnip lovers like.

Ok, enough about food.  I hope to post a bit about our pub experience last night last night, and we also have another one planned for tonight.  Were we were lacking in "pubness" in Rothesay, we are making up for it here in Inverness.   

We are going to go out and try to find another interesting breakfast, and will update as needed. 


Dee

Thirty P to Pee

10/2 The biggest event today was that we walked up Serpentine Hill to find the family home - Canada Cottage.  Apart from a tough climb, it was exciting to find the cottage at the end of a short road with a view of the bay from the back of the cottage.   

Front of Cottage and back of cottage.

In the evening, our host Sandy, entertained us with his abilities to play many different instruments.  He gave Dee her first guitar lesson (of sorts). 

Our lovely visit to the Isle of Bute came to an end and we caught the ferry, then the train from Weymss Bay back to Glasgow where after much worry, I was able to find and reclaim my wayward boots. It cost an £18.50 taxi ride but I had a great driver and got a history lesson about Glasgow along the way. From Glasgow, we caught a train to Perth, and then changed trains in Perth to Inverness.  Something we learned in the various train stations led to the title of this post.  It costs you £.30 (thirty P, or Pence) to Pee in a train station. 

BTW - Inverness is wonderful.  The River Ness flows through town and is a beautiful walk.  More from here later.  Love - Becky & Dee 

We Are Here!!

Thursday 9/29. After first leg of our flight (LAX to Toronto) and finishing up the second leg(Toronto to London), we watched the sun come up from 35,000 feet. No sleep for either of us on the flight as it was too cramped. I sat next to a nice lady from Lebanon who was heading home from Canada. We de-planed around 0900, and caught and underground train from Heathrow to Euston Station (train). We put our bags in lockup and walked to a second station, where we caught the Picadilly train to the Final family home in a small town called Amersham.

We didn't stay long as we had gone virtually 32 hours by that time with no sleep. We headed back to Euston Station and, I'm so proud of Dee, she heard two women across from us on the train who were speaking Italian. She finally spoke to them and ended up having a 1/2 hour conversation with them Just chatted away!! For all her worry, she did GREAT.

Back at Euston Station, we had a light dinner in an American-style diner listening to 60's American music. We still had 5 hours to wait for our sleeper train to Glasgow and it was already 7:00 p.m. A VERY tiring evening. Only thing good was the lounge was air conditioned.

                                                                                                                

Friday 930 - Sleeper train arrived in Glasgow at around 7:25, we de-trained by 7:50. While in Glasgow Central Station, I realized I'd left my boots ON THE SLEEPER TRAIN. The nice ScotRail Duty Manager is tracking them for me and hopefully by the time we hit Glasgow again in two days he will have them. Otherwise I have one pair of shoes for 5 weeks and they are hurting my toes.

Weymss Bay Station

We caught the train from Glasgow Central Station to Weymss (Weems) Bay and then the ferry to the Isle of Bute. It was wonderful seeing the Island come into view and rounding the corner into the Bay that I felt like I knew. 10 years of thinking about it, dreaming and planning and we are here. It's wonderful. We rode a bus to see some of the Island and met Ruthie and Ian who were a wealth of information about the island. Would loved to have spent an hour or two just talking to them. Ian was dressed in green tartan pants, matching tie and some other emblems, pins etc. Very snappy.

Saturday 10/1 Exploring Bute. Writing this while in the local library, after visiting the local museum. This morning we had a really good breakfast in a recommended spot. Tim, the owner is a jazz musician, so we took pics for Kim Davis who is studying Jazz at Sac State.

More later - Becky & Dee